Lisbon’s Tram 28 isn’t just a way to get around—it’s a journey through the city’s oldest layers, where the past feels closer than the next stop. The narrow, winding route cuts through neighborhoods that have seen centuries of change, carried by vintage yellow carriages that rattle up hills too steep for buses. These trams, known as *remodelados*, were introduced in the 1930s, and while they’ve been modernized over the years, they still carry the charm of an earlier Lisbon. The ride itself is part of the experience: the clatter of wheels on tracks, the way the tram tilts as it rounds a tight corner, the fleeting glimpses of laundry strung between buildings or a cat dozing in a sunlit doorway.
The route begins at Martim Moniz, a lively square where the city’s multicultural present is on full display, and winds its way through Alfama, Baixa, Chiado, and Estrela. In just under an hour, it covers much of Lisbon’s historic core, though the real magic lies in the details—the way the tram slows to a crawl as it navigates Alfama’s labyrinthine alleys, or how passengers squeeze past one another in the cramped carriages. In peak season, the trams are packed, and pickpockets are a known issue, so it’s wise to keep valuables close. Locals use Tram 28 as a practical way to get around, but for visitors, it’s often the first taste of the city’s rhythm.
Alfama, the oldest district in Lisbon, is where the tram’s route feels most alive. This was the only part of the city to survive the devastating earthquake of 1755, thanks to its bedrock foundation. The streets here are a maze of steep staircases and narrow passages, where clotheslines crisscross overhead and the scent of grilled sardines lingers in the air. It’s a place where time moves differently—where elderly residents chat on doorsteps, children kick footballs against ancient walls, and the melancholic strains of fado drift from open windows. Fado, Portugal’s soulful musical tradition, is UNESCO-listed, and in Alfama, it’s not a performance for tourists but a living part of the neighborhood. Small restaurants and bars host intimate evenings of music, where the songs tell stories of longing, loss, and the sea.
The district is home to some of Lisbon’s most iconic sights. The Sé Cathedral, built in the 12th century, stands as a testament to the city’s medieval past, its fortress-like exterior belying the quiet beauty of its interior. Nearby, the Miradouro de Santa Luzia offers one of the best views in Lisbon, with its tiled walls and sweeping panorama of terracotta rooftops and the Tagus River. Just a short walk away, the Miradouro das Portas do Sol provides another postcard-worthy vista, where the city seems to spill down toward the water. The National Pantheon, with its striking white dome, is another landmark worth visiting, though its grandeur feels almost out of place in Alfama’s humble streets.
Exploring Alfama on foot is just as rewarding as riding the tram, though it requires a bit of effort. The district’s steep inclines and endless staircases can be exhausting in the heat, but the rewards are worth it. Every turn seems to lead to another hidden viewpoint, another quiet square, or another glimpse into daily life. It’s easy to get lost here, but that’s part of the fun—there’s no rush, no set path, just the slow unraveling of a neighborhood that has resisted change for centuries. In June, Alfama comes alive during the Festas de Santo António, when the streets are filled with music, dancing, and the smell of sardines grilling over open flames. The celebrations are a mix of religious tradition and pure joy, with locals and visitors alike joining in the revelry.
For those who prefer a less crowded experience, Tram 12 follows a similar route and is often a quieter alternative. The early morning or late evening are the best times to ride Tram 28, when the crowds thin out and the light casts a golden glow over the city. Tickets can be bought directly from the driver, though using a rechargeable transport card is more economical, especially if you plan to explore other parts of Lisbon. The trams may be historic, but they’re still very much a part of the city’s daily life—locals use them to commute, run errands, or simply get from one hill to another.
There’s something deeply satisfying about watching Lisbon unfold from the window of Tram 28. It’s not just the sights—the cathedral spires, the river glinting in the distance, the laundry flapping in the breeze—but the sense of connection to the city’s past and present. The tram doesn’t just take you from one place to another; it carries you through layers of history, through neighborhoods that have seen empires rise and fall, through streets where the echoes of fado still linger. And when you step off, you’re not just in a different part of the city—you’re in a different Lisbon.
