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Anchor Square

Photo: Илья Сумерин, CC BY-SA 4.0

Anchor Square

Anchor Square in Kronstadt is a place where history feels almost tangible underfoot. The cobblestones here aren’t ordinary stone—they’re cast iron, laid out in a pattern that makes the entire square resemble a vast, weathered chessboard. This unusual pavement, one of the few of its kind in Russia, stretches for about two hundred meters, its thousands of iron blocks worn smooth by time and countless footsteps. The square was restored in the early 2010s, with the original iron slabs carefully lifted, refurbished, and returned to their place, preserving the texture of the past.

The name Anchor Square comes from the anchor depot that once stood here, operational from the mid-18th century until the late 1800s. Over time, the depot expanded to include anchor chains from decommissioned ships, turning the area into a kind of maritime graveyard for heavy metal. In 1861, a long stone wall was built to separate the space from the rest of the admiralty, a boundary that still defines the square’s western edge today. To the east, the green expanse of the Naval Cathedral’s park provides a quieter contrast. The name Anchor Square wasn’t officially settled right away—early 20th-century maps sometimes called it the Drill Ground, and it wasn’t until later that the more evocative name stuck. Locals, however, never wavered in calling it what it was.

For much of its history, the square has been a stage for both celebration and conflict. It was here, in the turbulent days of 1917, that dozens of officers, including the military governor Vice Admiral Viren, were killed during the February Revolution. The following month, the square became a burial site for those who had fallen in earlier uprisings, including the 1905 revolution and the subsequent years of unrest. By the early 1920s, the mass grave held the remains of around six hundred people, though only forty names are inscribed on the memorial. The square also witnessed the spark of the Kronstadt Rebellion in 1921, when a massive rally of sailors and townspeople demanded a Soviet government without Bolshevik control. The uprising was swiftly crushed, but the square’s role in those events left a lasting mark on its identity.

In the decades that followed, the square’s significance shifted with the political tides. In 1918, it was renamed Revolution Square, a name it kept until the early 1990s, though locals continued to call it Anchor Square regardless. A new memorial to the Victims of the Revolutions was unveiled in 1974, and in 1980, a flame was lit here, kindled from the Eternal Flame on Mars Field in St. Petersburg, symbolizing the enduring legacy of those turbulent years. The square’s role in military history didn’t end there—during World War II, it served as a defensive position, with artillery batteries and trenches dug into its surface. A memorial to the battleship *Oktyabrskaya Revolyutsiya* now stands as a reminder of that era.

Today, Anchor Square is a place where layers of history coexist. The Naval Cathedral, with its striking golden domes, looms over the eastern side, its grandeur contrasting with the square’s more utilitarian past. Nearby, a statue of Admiral Stepan Makarov, the naval commander and oceanographer, stands as a tribute to Kronstadt’s maritime heritage. The iron pavement, the memorials, and the cathedral all tell different stories, yet they share the same space, each contributing to the square’s unique atmosphere.

Walking across the iron cobblestones, it’s easy to imagine the crowds that once filled this space—sailors in uniform, protesters with banners, mourners at funerals, and soldiers on parade. The square has seen joy and sorrow, defiance and submission, and though its role has changed over the centuries, it remains a central part of Kronstadt’s identity. It’s not just a place to pass through; it’s a place to pause, to look around, and to feel the weight of the past beneath your feet.

Getting here is straightforward. From Soviet Street, you can cross the Soviet Bridge over the Obvodny Canal, or approach from Manezhny Lane via the Makarov or Upper Dock bridges, which span the Petrovsky Dock ravine. The square itself is compact, and you can walk its length in under half an hour, though lingering longer lets you take in the details—the way the iron glints in the sunlight, the inscriptions on the memorials, the quiet dignity of the cathedral’s facade. It’s a place where history isn’t just remembered; it’s lived.
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