Standing on Red Square, GUM isn’t just a shopping destination—it’s a piece of Moscow’s living history, a place where the past and present coexist in glass and stone. The building’s grand façade has witnessed over a century of change, from the bustling merchant stalls of the 19th century to the sleek boutiques of today. Originally known as the Upper Trading Rows, it was where merchants from across Russia came to sell fabrics, furs, and exotic goods. Now, it’s a landmark that defies simple categorization, blending luxury retail with everyday charm, where a winter ice rink glows beneath its iconic glass ceilings and tourists mingle with locals over coffee.
The architecture alone tells a story of innovation and resilience. Designed by Alexander Pomerantsev in the late 1800s, GUM was one of Russia’s first large-scale structures to use steel frameworks and expansive glass vaults. Its three parallel arcades create a sense of endless space, while intricate details—wrought-iron railings, colorful maiolica panels, and ornate moldings—hint at the opulence of pre-revolutionary Russia. The building has survived wars, revolutions, and economic upheavals, yet its original character remains intact, a rare feat for a structure that has seen so much.
Tucked away on the third floor, the GUM cinema is a quiet contrast to the bustle below. Opened in the 2000s, it pays homage to the Soviet-era tradition of screening films in department stores, though today’s program leans toward arthouse and classic cinema. The small, intimate theater feels like a hidden gem, with plush seating and warm acoustics—an ideal spot to escape the crowds and lose yourself in a film. Occasionally, it hosts festivals or director Q&As, adding a layer of cultural depth to the shopping experience.
GUM has long outgrown its role as a mere store. It’s a self-contained world where high-end fashion houses share space with souvenir stands, and Michelin-starred restaurants sit alongside casual eateries. The rooftop transforms with the seasons—summer terraces give way to winter markets, and the galleries below hum with activity year-round. During the Soviet era, it was a place of scarcity, where lines formed for basic goods; now, it’s a symbol of accessible luxury, where you can sip espresso at a café or splurge on a designer handbag, all under the same roof.
What’s striking about GUM is its ability to feel both timeless and contemporary. The building is owned by the Russian government but leased to Bosco di Ciliegi until 2059, a rare arrangement that ensures its preservation while keeping it relevant. New shops open regularly, exhibitions rotate through the galleries, and fashion shows bring a touch of glamour to the historic halls. It’s a place that evolves without losing its soul, a balance few landmarks manage to strike.
For Muscovites, GUM is a familiar backdrop to daily life, while for visitors, it’s a must-see. Yet few realize the complexity behind its polished exterior. Beneath the marble floors and glittering chandeliers lies a hidden infrastructure—boilers, ventilation systems, underground storage—all working to keep the building running smoothly. Even if you don’t buy anything, stepping inside is like touching the pulse of old Moscow, where every corner holds a fragment of history.
The cinema, in particular, offers a different way to experience film. Screenings often include retrospectives of classic movies, rare prints, or discussions with filmmakers. The atmosphere is relaxed, almost old-fashioned, a far cry from the multiplex experience. After the credits roll, you can wander the galleries, where evening lights cast a golden glow over the shoppers below, making the whole place feel like a stage set for a story that’s still being written.
GUM is a place where eras collide. One moment, you’re browsing the latest tech gadgets; the next, you’re staring at a display of Soviet-era memorabilia or a century-old clock still ticking away. It doesn’t try to be a museum, nor does it surrender to the generic feel of a modern mall. Instead, it remains a living monument, adapting to the times while holding onto its identity. That’s the magic of GUM—it’s not just a building, but a conversation between the past and the present, one that continues with every visitor who walks through its doors.
